This is one of our favourite hikes in the Vipava Valley: beautiful nature, Roman archaeology and a war memorial combined with views that you can't get enough of. And unexpectedly, a happy cow roaming free and stone sculptures at the top of the hill.
Where is Saint Paul's?
The church of Sveti Pavel (Saint Paul) is located above the village of Vrtovin on the slopes of Mount Čaven. The location is notable for its wide plateau, which you wouldn't expect above the dense vegetation at the top of the Vipava Valley flank. The hill is at 520 metres, and from us, you can drive to one of the starting points in under 10 minutes. Or make a day trip of it and set off directly on foot from us!
A rich history
Historical sources state that the hill was inhabited as early as the Iron Age and, due to its strategic location, served as a refuge for the local population.
From the 1st century, this area was regularly plundered and its population forced to abandon their settlements. The invasion of the Huns in the 5th century, the Hungarian raids in the 10th century, the Turkish invasions around 1521… This hill transformed from a temporary refuge into a safe dwelling place with fortified walls, a church, and amenities. The remains of that wall are still visible today, and the church was rebuilt after the Second World War.
The flank of the valley where the hill lies contains many natural water springs, making it an even more interesting location. During the walk, you will pass a striking 11-metre high water tower, considered to be the tallest Roman structure in Slovenia. The water was supplied from the tower via steep steps over the rocky southern edge. To give you an impression of what it looked like back then, Vipava Valley a reconstruction video made. This can be viewed at YouTube.
It appears a chapel already stood in the 3rd century on the site of the old fort and where the church now stands. Local residents built St. Paul's Church after World War II as a tribute to the war victims from the Vipava Valley.
The view
The view over the Vipava Valley is stunningly beautiful. On clear days you can see the entire valley, the Vogrscek Reservoir and even the Adriatic Sea. There are many lovely spots for a picnic and to let your mind wander.
The walk in detail
The walk can be started from various points. You can set off from the village of Vrtovin and park at the local school or at the cemetery. Two paths to Sveti Pavel start at the school building. Alternatively, you can set off from the cemetery near the village of Malovše and follow the road upwards from there. That's where we usually park. Part of the route goes through areas where cows or goats are grazing, a fantastic place for animals to graze. These areas are moved regularly, but you can recognise them by the poles or makeshift fencing which you are allowed to pass through as a walker. But close it properly again when you have passed through!
Follow the signs for “sv. Pavel”. The paths vary from paved to unpaved, and at the end you will reach the well-maintained terraced meadows below the church. Follow a barely visible footpath straight up over the meadows and you will naturally arrive at the plateau with the church, the statues, and the viewpoint. Do not expect extensive signage, so keep Google Maps handy.
Good to know
- Difficulty level: Medium to challenging – depending on the chosen route. Sturdy shoes are recommended due to the uneven terrain. Summit height: 520 m. Altitude difference: 360 m. The path is occasionally steep, with a mix of unpaved trails and footpaths.
- Route: Op On the Komoot website there's a basic route that is easy to extend.
- Duration: Walking to the church, with a short stop along the way, is a good hour's walk. The return trip is slightly quicker. So, allow for about 3 hours if you also want to enjoy the view at the top with a picnic.
- Best season:
- Spring and autumn Ideal conditions: cooler weather, clear views.
- The summer can be warm in the valley, but on the plateau there is often a refreshing breeze.
- Weather and wind: The valley can be windy; always take an extra layer, even if it is warm down in the valley.
- Water and snacks Take plenty with you, you won't find anything en route. There aren't many facilities in the villages either.
- Parking: The walk departs from various points. Either you depart from the village of Vrtovin and park at the local School or when Cemetery. Two paths to Sveti Pavel begin at the school building. Either you set off from the car park by the Malovše cemetery and follows the road upwards. That's where we usually park. Have fun!